Summer Surf, in February!

The last few days have reminded me of summer, with a few vital differences:

1) There's no-one here...
2) The water is 45 degrees, not 75...

The swell, however, has been glassy and fun, just like most summer mornings! Three days straight of virtually no wind, and waist to shoulder high crumbly swell, has made me a very tired person. To limit muscle fatigue, I've been changing boards like a ski town girl swaps boyfriends! 2 hours on the SUP, an hour on the fish, then grab a longboard for an hour, then back to the SUP...

Here's the sunset Sunday evening:


Makes me feel calm and, well... reflective...

I have a confession to make:

I LOVE buying surfboards. It's an addiction, kind of like cocaine. It's just as expensive, but much healthier. I have more surfboards than most people have socks. I only ride a handful of them all the time, but I love every one of them just the same. Last summer I got a 12'2" behemoth to learn how to stand up paddle. I also got a 5'9" fish, the shortest board I've ever owned. The funny thing is that they both work great on exactly the same days.... So why'd I buy both? Beats me, but I love 'em!

Speaking of consumption, James sent me this link about the history of plastic, and the science of dealing with all of the leftovers. It's a really good read, but budget yourself a solid 10 or 20 minutes to digest it all! Thanks, James!

Sunday was really fun, but I had trouble catching waves. I wasn't tired, it was Anne! She kept on snatching 'em all up! She was on fire! I guess when you become a weekend warrior, you've got a lot of steam to burn off in only two days... She was nabbing (and completely shredding) every single wave that came her way! Eventually I had to paddle down the beach to my own peak, just to get some waves to myself! Dan and Family, and Chad and Family joined us on the beach for a great afternoon of board swapping and sunny fun!

Here's Dan, taking off on a nice A-frame, courtesy Foust Photography, Inc.


Dan and I almost hopped a last minute flight to Puerto Rico last week. Here's what we missed. In Dan's own words: "shoulda, woulda, coulda- didn't" Ahhhh well, I still had plenty of fun here, wearing a 6/5/4...

Today, Stuart and I had the place to ourselves, and caught a ton of great waves! Started off on the SUP, then grabbed the fish when I needed a rest/change of muscles. It felt great to throw some spray after cruising and nose riding all morning! Here's Stuart going toeside no matter right or left (I honestly don't remember what his natural stance is anymore... any 3rd party guesses based solely on the pics?!)

Backdooring a right:

Lining up a looooong left:

A can of PBR to the first person to correctly guess Stuart's natural stance! (it's 50/50, so it shouldn't be that long till someone gets it)

I drastically need a rest day, maybe I'll take one tomorrow, since Wednesday is supposed to howl Southwest!!! 65 degrees and a 6 - 10 foot swell!! Yow!