Man the swell has just been super fun! We've been catching the dawn and dusk sessions for the last few days. The beauty of a glassy, windless ocean with nice clean waves is pretty tough to describe, especially when you add in epic sunsets, birds flying, and fish jumping... You've gotta experience it to know it I think...
I took a bunch of pictures this morning. Check 'em out, I left a lot of them as pretty big files if you're looking for a new desktop image... Enjoy!
Sea Oats in the morning light
Stu and Drew, looking like twins
The view from inside
Empty
Stuart
Drew
Drew
I finally got my hands on one of the Imagine Surfboards- the 6'1" Pocket Rocket thruster- the thing has such a nice feel on the wave, it's really responsive and super fast! It's a bit smaller than I'm used to surfing, so I'm training myself to sit a bit deeper to make the drops, but on the face the board is just unreal... Loving it! Give Drew or Kev a call if you want to get your hands on one of these things, you won't be disappointed!
Wednesday, August 26, 2009
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5 comments:
that pic of stu and drew could turn out to be a classic
Here comes TS Danny, forecast to be a Cat. 1 cane by the time it finds it's way to you.
oh man the barrel pic makes me salivate, even though I'll probably never be in one...
I wanna surf with you guys in the a.m. It was smaller, lumpier, and crowded-er where I went.
George- a classic "how-to: ruin a surfing friendship" ?? haha
Slide- the Namesake!! Are you gonna come meet it here?!
Never say never Aaron- getting in is the easy part, getting out is the tough part...
Just look for the truck Dan... But leave your 30 friends at the other break, if you don't mind!
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