I Love Hurricane Hanna

...at least for now. We'll see how I feel about her in a few days when she makes landfall... In the meantime, she's been pumping us some really fun waves! The South side has been lit up with overhead sets for the last 2 days. I got some great surfing in yesterday, including one of the longest lefts of my life! This thing just kept opening up for me, section after section after section... This, however, is what most of 'em looked like:

Unknown on a sectiony one

This morning (Monday), the wind picked up just enough to do a schlog session. I caught up with Stuart just as he set out at the Lighthouse. It was chock full of lumpy bombs that were basically breaking right up onto the beach. Gnarly, especially for how light the wind was. But he made it out (eventually), and caught one good wave. Here's the sequence in it's entirety:Shorebreak? Nah, whatever...

Looked a little like death on a stick to me, so Keith, Martine and I started a South Side reconnaissance mission. We ended up down on Ocracoke, after seeing reeling left hand barrels and NO wind at Isabels. Somehow, we lucked out and jumped right on the ferry, with no wait whatsoever (which is pretty much the only reason we went. A long line is a major deterrent for me).


I'm always amazed at how playful the Ocracoke wave is, no matter how big it gets. Today, the sets were a bit overhead, and standing up way outside, with a tiny bit of fizzle off the top all the way in to the inside section, where they would detonate. Super fun, and lined up for 5, 6, 7 bottom turns on the good ones! Very fun schlog sesh!

Keith lining one upLong Lines (Keith pic)No Wind (Keith Pic)

Bill showed up just as the wind really lightened up, he took a few passes, and then we all went surfing for the rest of the afternoon. Killer day down in Ocracoke! I'm exhausted right now, with more surf on the horizon, pretty much indefinitely at this point! Awww yeah! See ya out there!!